Ladakh : Part 8 (Heaven of the Heaven - Pangong Tso)

“The use of traveling is to regulate imagination by reality, and instead of thinking how things may be, to see them as they are.” – Samuel Johnson

I had heard about Pangong Tso (Tso => Lake) so much even before deciding on Ladakh trip, I couldn't resist myself to pre-pone the plan of Pangong before Nubra valley..So again Nubra valley was postponed..And we decided to go Pangong lake on 18th June..

Fortunately, it didn't rain that night and weather was crystal clear..I had heard and read about beauty of Pangong lake that I thought of spending a night over there, to have two days for it..It is said that if you are at Pangong on full moon night, you are one of the luckiest persons on the earth..It was neither a full moon day and given time constraints and because it was said 'one day would suffice', I gave up the plan of spending 2 days for Pangong and decided to come back to Leh on the same day..Pangong lake is situated at about 170kms from Leh which generally takes 5 hours, climbing up to Chang La (5360 m) and then climbing down to the lake (4350 m)..

We started early in the morning..At 6 AM..It is better to cross Chang La before noon, since the possibility of snow melting during the noon period is large and you might get stuck..We had Scorpio..The trip to Pangong lake cost Rs. 4500/-..It was the fixed rate..Till Karu, the road was plain, which we traveled on previous day..There, we took left diversion from Leh-Manali highway and immediately we began climbing up..At Karu., we had light breakfast..Soon our permits were checked after Karu..Road to Pangong was rough and tough..It was highly curvy and steep..Driving skill was surely tested..There was a thin layer of snow on the road which made road slipperily..Mind it! We had a very deep gorge on our left..And as soon as we started climbing up, we realized the decision not to go to Pangong on bikes was a wise one..None of us was that much expert to drive in those treacherous conditions..And we could see that there was heavy snowfall at Chang La on the previous day as the snow was quite fresh..Though the road was breathtaking, the surrounding was more exciting..We were somewhere on the road amidst snow clad hills..Snow was everywhere and as we moved to climb up, it got colder and whiter :) Clouds seemed to be within reach of our hands..

Thrilling journey begins!

We have come here crossing all those road..

Beginning of snow..

Leaving those barren mountains behind for a while..

Snowy and slippery road..

It has got whiter :)

Now my words are powerless :p

I guess we were among the first ones to leave for Pangong since we didn't meet any traffic on the way..A tipper was moving ahead of us..That portion of the road was pretty steep and suddenly the tipper stopped and started slipping down towards us..Whoaa!! Our driver, Tashi immediately reacted and he also let our vehicle slipped down in a controlled way!! Fortunately, tipper driver managed to control his vehicle and after a short break checking tire conditions, we resumed to Chang La..Soon we passed an abandoned skeleton of a vehicle that got completely buried in snow avalanche :-o Tashi got more attentive and proceeded very carefully..

The tipper who frightened us :p

Just before Chang La, we found another vehicle, a Jeep, stuck in snow..People were trying to get rid of snow with the iron chain rounding tires of the Jeep..Finding this opportunity, we got down from our Scorpio and threw ourselves into the white sea of fresh snow..It was an incredible feeling..I had never seen or touched such soft and fresh snow :) We jumped, ran, slept in snow..Snow bombardment happened..We raced with shoes getting stuck half feet under snow :p That was fun unlimited!! After some time, Jeep managed herself to remove from shackles of snow and we soon reached Chang La, which boasts the third highest motorable road in the world (there is controversy about its rank) after Khardung La and Tanglang La..This pass is at 17586 ft (5.38 kms from MSL!!)..We were welcomed by Indian army soldiers, offering complimentary tea..

Way to Chang La..

Snow and snow and snow!!

:)

5.3 kms from MSL!! More than half of Mt. Everest height :p

Chang La..

The only color everywhere!

After spending half an hour at Chang La, we left for Pangong..We were climbing down to the other side of the hill..We yet to be out of effect of snow and Chang La, we reached Tangtse..A small town around 40 kms from Pangong..We stopped for breakfast and guess what we met those 3 sardarji who asked us on the previous day for a bike trip to Pangong..We were surprised to see them there..One of them had a plaster on his right hand..We inquired and came to know about an accident happened with them..Initially, they got stuck in rain and snowfall at Chang La with no provision of clothes for snow..And when they were climbing down from Chang La later, breaks of bike of a sardarji got failed :-o Luckily speed of the bike was about 40km/hr, he  managed to jump away from the bike and got out of trouble with his hand fractured! Thankfully everything rest was fine with him :) They had stayed at Tangtse for the night..We all had breakfast together..We came to know that those 3 guys were professional musicians and singers..And they sang Punjabi songs and Hindi oldies for us..They were incredible..We enjoyed their company a lot..When asked by us about their Manali plan, they answered typically in sardarji attitude, "Oye, ekahi bande ka haath fracture hua hai, hum do aur hai " (Dude! Only one's hand is fractured, other two are fantastic) :p So they would be going to Manali on bike! We then left for Pangong lake..Sardarji said they would catch up later..

After an hour ride crossing Pagal Nala (known as Mad stream because of its unpredictability), around 12 PM, that glimpse came! The glimpse for which I waited eagerly..That clean blue color stretching itself beyond horizon..Yeah! We had arrived at Pangong Tso!! Words are powerless to express the beauty that lake and those landscapes own! Having read about it in a great deal, seeing many pictures and even knowing what to expect after reaching there, we were taken by complete awe and surprise..

Pangong is a brackish water lake..It is said that lake changes color as the day progresses..It wears deep blue when the sun is bright and loses its color gradually as day progresses and becomes dull when the sun reaches horizon..It is surrounded by brown hills and they can see their reflections in that clean water..The blue expanse of the water is stretched over 125kms, extending from India to Tibet with 40% of parts in India and remaining in China..One can see the faraway peaks that lie in China..When we reached there the breeze was cool, sun was bright..Flocks of ducks were enjoying idly..Lake had acquired complete blue color..Clouds had formed black shadows on brown still hills..Snow at peak was shining..Group of gulls were flying intermittently in the sky towards the east, to Tibet, sometimes smoothly landing on water, unknown to the boundaries of countries, restricted access to humans, imposed on each other..A thought came to mind..

What would the first explorers have felt who came here without any kind of map and presented with this breathtaking unknown blue expanse suddenly!!

 We sat there relaxed, with legs in chill water, looking and trying to pick the elegance and beauty of the surrounding landscapes..It was a sense of a great achievement, just being there :) Let me show you my achievement!

The first glimpse!

Finally, I'm here /m\

Shiny peaks :)

The ones with no barriers..

heaven of the heaven!!

Can't stop myself :p

The dominating landscapes!!

After a long peaceful time at the bank admiring landscapes, we had our expensive lunch at Pangong :p One can stay near Pangong lake at Spangmik village in tented accommodation...We headed back to Leh at 3PM..Reached Leh by 8PM..Yet we were not out of Pangong effect and still even till today too :p

Next day, we would be heading for Nubra valley..We were on the edge of saying Ladakh a goodbye within 2 days..And still Leh-Manali highway was not opened..Rohtang, Baralacha la was closed due to snow fall..We were praying it would open before we leave Leh for Manali..Let's wait for some time to see whether we could make to Manali and how Nubra valley was :)

Ladakh : Part 7 (Around Leh)

 “Traveling is a brutality. It forces you to trust strangers and to lose sight of all that familiar comfort of home and friends. You are constantly off balance. Nothing is yours except the essential things – air, sleep, dreams, the sea, the sky – all things tending towards the eternal or what we imagine of it.” – Cesare Pavese

In our Ladakh trip, till then everything was happening according to plan..At Srinagar, we had a little bit modified our initial plan, shifting Nubra Valley plan (that was initially to be carried on 18th and 19th June) one day before..But I guess weather didn't want that..It rained very heavily in Leh in the night..Driver called us asking to postpone the plan for Nubra valley for one day as there had been plenty of snowfall at Khardung La (On the way to Nubra valley) and road was blocked..So driver told us to have a peek around Leh, in the radius of 50-60kms..That seemed feasible..One problem was still there..We had issued Inner Line Permits for 3 days only and were going to lose one day of permitted days..So we needed to get permits for one more day that we decided to do on our own since we had 'nuff time that day..We had breakfast and inquired about permits to locals..We came to know that we could easily get ILPs at Leh DC office..Detailed procedure for obtaining ILPs can be found at this website..Then just roaming around, we came to a shop, renting the bikes..Suddenly we all looked  into each other's eyes and without saying a word, we all moved into the shop :p Unanimously and without an appearance of a single word, we decided to rent bikes to roam around Leh..Just we were inquiring  and deciding on the bikes, 3 Sardarji came in the shop..They were leaving to Pangong lake on bikes that day and then next day to the Manali..They asked us whether we wished to go along with them to Pangong lake..All of us were into the mood of adventure, we almost said YES, but somehow Nitish felt it would be very risky to ride bikes 300kms in a day and that too on a very treacherous road and pass..He became sure and reluctant, so we gave a more thought to his opinion and we agreed to him.."It would become risky and unnecessary adventure!"..So we cancelled the plan for Pangong lake and continued with our original plan to move around Leh and see some great and famous monasteries..

There were two good options about the bikes..The first was renting Royal Enfield and another was Pulsor..Nobody of us had enough experience with Enfied, so we decided to get 3 Pulsors..Puslor cost Rs.450/- per day and Enfield cost Rs. 600 per day, both excluding fuel charges..The whole journey for the day was gonna be around 120kms..We filled required fuel and moved to make ILPs..To our great surprise, we got them in 15 minutes and at Rs.15/- per head :) Happily we then began our excursion around Leh..

Itinerary around Leh..Total 110 kms traveling..
A: Leh, B: Stok, C: Shey, D: Thiksey, E: Karu, F: Hemis

Leh has a lot to offer around it..It consists of very well known monasteries..palaces..We made the list..Most of the places lie on Leh-Manali highway..

Place where it is going to begin!

School..Outside of Leh DC office.. 

Archery competition at school..

Way out of Leh..

 Choglamsar came the first at 6 kms from Leh..We had a tea break there..Then took a diversion from the highway and arrived at Stok palace..From the top of the palace, one can see long and long plain deserted plateau and still it has got magnificent elegance..Palace had a very nice cafe, decorated in traditional way..We got more relaxed, came back to the highway and moved to Shey palace..It is aged around 550 years..Shey was beautiful..We took a short-cut from Shey leaving highway..And that short-cut was a gift..We were presented with long green pastures, sweet sounding trickles flowing along with them, chirping birds, deep mooing and rare human existence..Certainly a place worth to stop a bit and enjoy the solitude! 

A view from Stok palace!!

Traditional Cafe at Stok palace  /m\

Another one from Stok palace!!

 After a while rest, we continued and soon arrived at highway again near Thiksey monastery..It is a well placed and the view from it, was just terrific..The scenario you see from the monastery consists of desert, green town completely adjacent to that deserted valley, the Indus river flowing on the other side of the town and around all these varying landscapes, stands mighty snow-capped mountain range..So desert + vegetation + river + snow at a one place!! Thiksey monastery was the first monastery for most of us..We entered and observed it watchfully..It was an exciting introduction to a new culture..Ambiance was great..Though there were many other tourists, ambiance was maintained..Such was the feel! It was around 1 PM and the sun was bright amidst the cool breeze :p 

Nature- All in one :)

One of the ways to mix up and feel the culture..

Can't stop clicking :p

Aha!! Resplendent Shey village!

A perfect village!

Prayer wheel at Thiksey monastery..Pretty exciting!

Thiksey monastery..

Anything interesting??

Way to Hemis Gompa..

Thiksey monastery..

The Biking continues to Hemis..

 Having a little snack over there, we resumed towards Hemis Gompa (monastery)..Hemis is the largest monastery in the Ladakh region..Placed marvelously amidst hills so that one can't spot it until you reach pretty close to it..At Karu, one has to take a diversion from highway..One goes to Manali, second goes to Pangong lake and third one to Hemis..At high altitudes, even Pulsors were unable to get pick up..And at that low speed, Pulsor carrying Irfan and Rahul slipped! Luckily there was no injury..We literally needed to force our Pulsors at 1st/2nd gear..Finally, we reached Hemis..40 kms from Leh..It was 4 PM till then..And the monastery was about to get closed in some time..It was a huge monastery..A lot of monks offering prayers..Monastery has got beautiful museum..We bought tickets and visited it..It was really one of the greatest museum I have seen..It is the collection of over 1000 statues and 2000 paintings dating back to almost 2-3 rd century..Hemis monastery was built in 17th century by Dharma King Sengye Namgyal..It is an awesome place and a must visit..Thanks to our some bad luck, we were going to miss Hemis festival by 2 days..It is a quite famous event which is held in honor of Guru Padma Sambhav's birth anniversary. Splendid mask dances and plays are performed with drums, long horns..And we missed them :( We should have planned our itinerary more carefully! 

Hemis Gompa..

Up way to Hemis..Into the hills!

Who will not love to bike in such amazing nature??

Hemis..

By the time, we roamed in Hemis Gompa, it was evening..Since the day was partially cloudy and  due to the hill, it looked like sun is going to set soon and weather chilled..We were also hungry..We had delicious Maggie and lot of cups of tea :D And quickly started our way back..As we were climbing down, we gained more speed and soon joined highway again back to Leh..And sooner cloud cover vanished and it was a sunny day again everywhere..Weather became pleasant and enthralling..Again with the simultaneous experience of hot and cold weather, we reached Leh..

The Bikers!!

Way back to Leh..

Change in surrounding yet again!

Shanti Stupa at Leh..

Yet another panoramic view of Leh from Shanti Stupa!

The remained was Shanti Stupa..To reach there, one has to cross Leh town to the opposite side..We reached Shanti Stupa at the time when the day was calling off for the day :) We peacefully sat there awing at wonderful panoramic view of Leh again, which had completely captivated our minds since last 2 days, revising the whole day of fun, introduction to completely new culture, people and new experiences that entered our mind and soul forever :) We looked the Leh and its surrounding in our own way..We actually felt it by letting us move as we wanted with no restriction, with no specific intention of sightseeing..We did have no guide..We inquired, we traveled, we experienced and we enjoyed! One day before, we had planned something different, but next day happened something else which brought extreme fun and a great life..Uncertainty proved her role and I admired it..And the best part was, that day on which I was introduced to a new culture because of free roaming, is the motivation behind my self-planning which is never perfect, but brings extremely necessary unpredictability which really helps me to closely understand and feel the real essence of traveling!!