Ladakh : Part 5 (Kargil - Leh)

Kargil - Leh is around 230kms in distance..Normally takes 6-8 hours and we were not in a hurry to rush to Leh as we had enough time in our hand..So we decided to resume a little late in the morning from Kargil..Also, we wanted to recover from the fatigue caused us traveling more than 12 hours on the previous day day and that too starting at 4AM..So we got fresh and cruised our way to Leh around 9AM..As soon as we were out of Kargil town, we crossed Indus for the first time and she was accompanying us on the right side then..Very soon, the typical characteristics of Ladakh region appeared before us.. the typical characteristics which were till then only seen in photos & videos, only heard in the third person..Barren desert look like mountains wearing snow caps!! They looked simple but mighty and beautiful to me..It is a paradise for those who love mountains and their panoramic views..Ladakh offers them, many of them one after another..And mind them! They are Karakoram and Himalaya! One of the mightiest mountains in the whole world!

Kargil..A start to Ladakh..

The famous landscapes of Ladakh..

The road just after Kargil was pretty rough..But we had already acquainted ourselves to such roads, so no problems now :) We kept moving at 30km/hr, curiously stalking at the amazing terrain which were not seen in person by any of us before..It was literally like "Dreams come true" kind of situation for me :) I was unable to take my eyes off the mountains and its surroundings..Traffic was rather heavy and filled with plenty of trucks..The road was dusty..But nobody cared about that..Everybody was busy observing new world with awe!!

I personally classify Ladakh into two regions from a traveling point of view..Zanskar and non-Zanskar..Zanskar valley is situated in highly remote area..Accessible for a short window of time in year..Mountain range called Zanskar Range acts as a main barrier..A dedicated trip is quite possible for beautiful Zanskar region, but we were not onto it at that time..Maybe some time later in future :) Road to Zanskar start after Kargil..The other goes to Leh..

After some time, we stopped for breakfast..Till that time, road had become smoother and pretty green vegetation made their presence amidst barren landscapes..

Barren lands are not alone, they have company :)

Towns are situated at the oasis in deserted Ladakh..

 Soon the road became awesome and with that the landscapes..

Road in the heaven..

Everyone was excited..Environment was filled with a some kind of magical happiness..was feeling like accomplishing a big achievement to me if I'm not exaggerating..We all were already pretty excited by sort of trekking experience in Pahalgam and we wanted some more..We were looking for a chance..And in some time, we got it!! We stopped at a random spot, at which some kind manageable climbing seemed possible.. So we got out of the vehicle immediately and began our so called adventure :p Yess, an adventure at least for us..We were newbie at trekking with zero trekking experience, for whom climbing that hill was an uphill task.. We climbed a bit and soon it became pretty steep for us.. Four of us stopped considering its steepness and lack of our experience..Two of us moved on.. With the support of each other and tiring efforts at high altitude, I and Dhruva, somehow managed to climb that steep portion and reached the top of the hill which offered us enough plain space at least to stand comfortably.. Till then, I was focusing on climbing..Reaching on top, I glanced 360 degrees around me and the view simply stupefied me!! That was the most beautiful view of my life till then and I have never seen such an elegant Himalaya till today!! There were ranges of barren hills one after another..And snowy mountains behind those..a long and curvy road piercing them towards Leh!! Following pictures might introduce you to that phenomenal nature..

The best view I have ever captured!!

In an effort to capture above view ;)

After experiencing mesmerizing surroundings, we started climbing down..To my surprise it was far difficult than climbing up..One-step miss placed or lost balance, you will find yourself at the bottom within some seconds (possibly dead :o).. We literally climbed down sitting on our hips :p We got down finally safely with a sigh of relief..That was not less than a great adventure for me!

As we were preparing to hit the road once again, a group of people overtook us..They were also going to Leh like us..The only difference was, we were going in a vehicle sitting comfortably and they were going on the bicycle!! Bicycling at an average height of 11000 feet is not certainly a joke and business of those with weak hearts!! They certainly deserved our salute..

The real adventurers!! Hats off!!

It was around 1PM..We were hungry..Finding a restaurant on this route is a difficult task since finding towns on this road is itself a rare event..We approached a town where we bought some snacks and to our great surprise the shopper did not charge a single extra penny over MRP!! That too in such a remote region!! An incident worth remembering.. As we continued our climbing the altitudes and approaching snow clad peaks which seemed far some time back, we were accompanied by rain and amidst the rain we reached Fotula, the highest point on Srinagar - Leh road..

Fotula..

As we went on moving further and further, the more amazing surrounding became..We reached a spot where mountains were colored naturally in golden patch..

The Golden mountain!!

A breathtaking but worth taking way!

Then followed famously "Jalebi mode" (Jalebi is an Indian cuisine which is spiral in shape)..

The curves of Jalebi mode..

Can't resist myself to put another snap :)

After completing Jalebi mode, we left rough road behind and met very very smooth road..We hit 80km/hr from 30km/hr..We soon crossed Lamayuru..Terrain became relatively flat and less dangerous..Long and long plains cut in the middle by an endless road could be seen..We were approaching Leh..

Are we really in Himalaya?? Doesn't seem so :p

Before Leh, around 30km, there is a holy place for Sikh known as Pathar Sahib..It has an interesting story related to it..There used to be a demon living on the mountain and he used to kill people in the valley..Guru Nanak Dev arrived in Ladakh and was asked to help by the people..Demon seeing Guru Nanak Dev praying one day, hurled a large stone at him, but the stone became soft like a wax as soon as it touched Guru Nanak Dev and an impression of him was formed on the stone..Amazed and frightened by this, demon accepted his defeat.. That stone can be seen in the Gurudwara with the impression of Guru Nanak Dev..

Pathar Sahib..

The same area is also famously known for "Magnetic Hills"..It is alleged that the hill possesses magnetic properties which pull vehicles..But it is confirmed that it is only an optical illusion and nothing else..

In the middle of all these excitements, the clock was ticking to 6 PM and we arrived at Leh, known as a capital and the biggest city of Ladakh region.. We were feeling  little bit exhausted due to high altitude sickness..We soon found a good hotel costing Rs. 450 per night per room for 3 persons in a room.. Cheaper option is to find guest houses..There are plenty of them, costing around Rs. 300 per room per night..Leh is full of all amenities from ATM, Bank, Internet to multi cuisine hotels..We got fresh and stepped out for dinner..The weather had become windy and cold, but it was quite pleasant..

Finally Leh!!

The day was an extraordinary day..We were introduced to an entirely different and very beautiful region of the world which deeply amused us..We climbed around 14000 ft, moved on dangerous rough curves with the company of elegant hills and magnificent Indus river..Climbed down to Leh at 11500 ft..We were yet to be awakened from the resplendent memories of that day, we fell asleep to awake next day to see more of the heavenly Ladakh further :) 

Ladakh : Part 4 (Srinagar - Kargil)

On day 3, we were at Pahalgam and then back to Srinagar by evening. And the end of the day started with planning for next day. We hadn't till then thought of conveyance for Leh (Capital of Ladakh region) from Srinagar..Srinagar-Leh is approximately 440 kms, generally traveled in two days with an overnight break at Kargil..There were 3 options available..First, take a shared taxi, generally Sumos that run between Srinagar and Leh with an overnight halt at Kargil, which normally costs Rs.900-1000 per head..But that option is pretty tiresome with 10 people excluding driver in a vehicle..Or one can avail public bus service with normally minus 400 bucks from your pocket..And the third option was to hire a private vehicle..We were more inclined towards the last option as we already had seen the fun during transition from one place to another in your own vehicle..We asked our driver who accompanied us over last 2 days..After a lot of bargaining he finally was ready at Rs.10500/-, which was more than regular charges for a sumo..We knew it..But the driver was quite good at driving and we were not in any mood to search a vehicle and bargain again in Srinagar..So we hired the same sumo for next two days..


We left Srinagar, on 14th June, at very early morning around 430AM..I guess we were the first to set off for Leh from Srinagar that day as no vehicles were seen on the road..There is one thing that gotta remember..Small vehicles need to cross a check post at Sonamarg before 10AM because after 10 AM heavy vehicles leave for Kargil/Leh, which many times get stuck in  Zozi-La pass creating major traffic jams which sometimes last 2-3 days..We narrowly escaped it while returning from Leh :)

Srinagar-Sonamarg..

 We reached Sonamarg within 2 hours, at around 630 AM..Everybody had become hungry till then..But restaurants were yet to open..Weather was very cold..Or maybe we were feeling so, hadn't been exposed to such weather before..We requested a restaurant owner who was just awake to prepare something..Parathas, Maggie..He kindly agreed and we had breakfast within half an hour..So what to see at Sonamarg?? It has a famous glacier Thajiwas, with snow that is 1000 years old it was said so by locals..After a major bargaining, we hired six ponies Rs.100/- each to take us to glacier and back..Initially, local guides were asking 400 bucks per pony :-o.. Never mind, they had to do the business and we had to haggle and see the glacier..We reached the glacier in half an hour..Sun was seeking to come out of clouds, which shimmered peaks of surrounding mountains..There is an option of skiing on the glacier..Personally I felt it was not worth to go for it..It was ill-managed and not properly conducted..Again rates for skiing were sky-reaching..It is not exactly the skiing by the way..You go little up at the glacier, 50/100/150/200 feet, a person who knows to carry skiing slate sit at the front and you sit behind him..He carries you down by slate sliding..Rates are according to feet..Normally Rs.100 for 100 feet..But Sonamarg is just stunningly beautiful..We early birds were yet to face the crowd, but faced elegant mountains all around us, glimmering with sunshine, white and white snow..A long and long valley divided by glacier..

On the way to glacier..At Sonamarg..

Thajiwas Glacier..

Sonamarg Valley..

Mountains after mountains..Sonamarg.. 

Sonamarg Valley..

We started to return..It was already 10 in the morning..So we hurried up..Reaching back to town, bought some woolen socks and gloves as we couldn't find them while preparing for the trip..And we resumed our journey further..Soon we were in Zozi-La..Arduous task it was to drive there..You have a very little distance from a horrible death..2-3 feet..Snow had started melting..Driver had to take wise judgement while driving..Sometimes more than half Tyre would be in a hole filled with water..We had to be very careful...And as we were being habitual of this, it appeared around us!! Snow appeared around us!! Yess!! I had not seen it so closely and touched before.. We stopped..Got down..I screamed like hell out of the joy..Oooooooooo!!! It was a lifetime moment..A wait of years ended..Like a patriot who takes soil of his nation in his hand with love, I took the snow :P:D We soon accompanied by a group of people whose vehicle was facing gas leaking problem..Our driver went to help them..Taking this opportunity, we got down to the deep valley which initially seemed quite difficult to approach, but Irfan took the lead and we all followed him down..It was not less than an adventure for us..We had fun, a lot of fun there with an enormous amount of snow :)

Treacherous and breathtaking Zozi La..

Curves of Zozi-La..

The first feel of actual snow :)

Unsaid excitements!!

 Having a long break, we hit off NH1D again..It is one of two ways that connects Leh to rest of India going through treacherous terrain and along Indus river..Control over this highway was one of the main motives of Pakistan for Kargil war..This highway is very very important and amazingly beautiful..

NH 1D :)

NH 1D :):)

Reached Dras in the afternoon..Dras..The second coldest permanent inhabitant place in the world after Siberia..In the winter, temperature goes down to -60 degree Celsius..And from here one can easily notice the slight beginning of Ladakh..Change in people appearances and their entirely living style..Dras is a mixture of Kashmiri and Dard origin people..Dras is famous for Kargil war and Tiger hill recapture..We took a break at Dras, had a little snack and moved quickly towards Kargil..


As we were approaching Kargil, we could see warning board saying "ALERT!! ENEMY IS WATCHING YOU!" Shit!! Yeah, there were such boards..But then the fun began..Everybody of us started, predicting where Pakistan post could be :D LOL!! Within that messed up discussion, within self-made strategies to find out the location of enemy posts, somebody would scream suddenly "I found it! I found it!". Then our driver would calmly say "Sir, it is amazing to see that you can point out enemy posts merely sitting in a vehicle that is moving at 40km/hr, indeed ingenious" :P:P (These days this incident reminds me conversations between Wooster and Jeeves of P.G.Wodehouse)..Then time for ROFL for others :D With some patriotic and fun filled feeling, we were just to enter Kargil, a truck from opposite came rashly towards us, pushing our vehicle to more left side..And literally we were an inch or two away to be galloped by Indus flowing deep in the valley..A horrendous moment of life!! Cursing truck driver heavily, we reached Kargil..It was 6PM already..We hunted for a hotel, and found a reasonably good hotel on the main street near taxi stand..Rs.150/- per room, 3 persons in a room..There is no need to take expensive hotels in Kargil..Driver said us that if we wished he could take us to Leh on the same day, till 12AM..We refused strongly to continue and that was a good decision..One problem faced in Kargil was to find good restaurant..Everybody was quite hungry and none of has lunch in the afternoon..We finally had our dinner and had a round in Kargil town at the late evening..Sound of furious Indus,frightened us and as it was getting dark, we were back to room and with not much further talking, but recollecting all day fun back in the mind we allowed our highly tired bodies for sleep, eagerly waiting for next more fun filled morning :)